How accurate is the blue blade finish to the game design?

The blue blade finish is one of the most immediately recognizable visual details of Jin Sakai's katana in Ghost of Tsushima, and the replicas in this collection reproduce it through a controlled surface treatment process applied after forging and polishing. The result is a deep, cool-toned blue across the blade's flat, which shifts subtly in different lighting conditions — much like the in-game rendering. This finish is not paint; it bonds with the steel surface. That said, like all surface treatments on carbon steel, it benefits from light maintenance oil to prevent any moisture from affecting the underlying metal beneath the finish layer.

How do I properly display and store a Tachi sword?

A horizontal katana stand works well, but for historical accuracy many collectors use a tachi-kake — a vertical or angled rack that suspends the sword with the edge facing down, mirroring how it was traditionally worn. Keep the display area away from direct sunlight, which can fade lacquer finishes and degrade the ito wrap over time. For storage, apply a thin coat of choji clove oil to the blade using a soft flannel cloth, then return it to its fitted saya. Maintain indoor humidity between 40–55 percent to prevent moisture damage or rust formation on the steel. Periodically remove the blade to inspect for any oxidation spots, especially if you live in a humid climate.

What does clay tempering do, and can I see it on the blade?

Clay tempering is a traditional Japanese heat-treatment technique where a mixture of clay is applied unevenly along the blade before the final quench. The clay-coated spine cools more slowly than the exposed edge, creating a differential hardness across the blade. The boundary between these two zones becomes the hamon - a visible, irregular line that runs along the lower portion of the blade. On T10 steel, the hamon appears as a misty, undulating pattern sometimes described as an 'activity line.' It is one of the most sought-after features among katana collectors because it cannot be etched or faked on a properly forged piece - it is a direct record of the heat-treatment process itself.

How should I store a dragon katana to protect the lacquered saya?

Lacquered sayas — whether piano black, crackle red, or marble-finish — require a few simple precautions to maintain their finish over time. Store the katana horizontally on a dedicated sword stand, edge facing upward in the Japanese tradition, in a low-humidity environment. Relative humidity above 60% can cause lacquer to develop micro-cracks over years, particularly on high-gloss piano lacquer finishes. Avoid storing the blade inside the saya for extended periods without occasional light oiling of the blade with choji oil or a neutral mineral oil; trapped moisture between blade and saya lining accelerates oxidation on carbon steel. Keep the piece away from direct sunlight, which fades pigment lacquers over time. A microfiber-lined display case offers protection from dust without the humidity risks of a sealed glass cabinet with no ventilation.

What makes a shirasaya different from a standard katana mount?

Updated Mar 2026

A standard katana mount - called a koshirae - includes a tsuba (hand guard), a wrapped tsuka (handle), and decorative fittings such as menuki and fuchi-kashira. A shirasaya removes every one of those elements, replacing them with a single unadorned wooden housing that covers both the handle portion and the blade in one seamless unit. The result is a blade that appears, when sheathed, to be a plain piece of hardwood. Historically, this configuration was used specifically for long-term blade storage because plain wood allows subtle moisture exchange that lacquered koshirae cannot provide, reducing the risk of rust forming against the steel over years of inactivity. In the modern collectible market, the shirasaya is valued as a display mount that directs the viewer's full attention to the blade's geometry, grain structure, and hamon.