Are real samurai swords still made?

Yes, real samurai swords, also known as "katana," are still made today by skilled swordsmiths who continue the traditions of Japanese swordmaking. These modern katana makers, often referred to as "swordsmiths" or "tosho," carry on the legacy of the ancient craft, preserving the artistry and techniques that have been passed down through generations.While the historical techniques and materials of traditional Japanese swordmaking, such as tamahagane (traditional steel made from iron sand) and specific smelting processes, are not commonly employed today, modern swordsmiths utilize various modern steel alloys and manufacturing methods to create high-quality katana.Contemporary katana makers blend traditional craftsmanship with modern materials and techniques to produce functional and aesthetically appealing swords. They employ processes such as differential heat treatment (hardening the edge and leaving the spine softer), precise shaping, polishing, and sometimes even traditional decorative elements like hand-carved fittings or tsukamaki (handle wrapping).These modern samurai swords are made for collectors, martial artists, enthusiasts, and those seeking an authentic, high-quality katana for display or practice. They are typically crafted with attention to detail, adherence to traditional design principles, and a deep respect for the art and history of the samurai sword.It's worth noting that the creation of authentic, high-quality katana requires significant skill, experience, and knowledge. The work of reputable swordsmiths who adhere to traditional methods and produce quality blades continues to be valued and sought after by collectors and practitioners alike.If you are interested in obtaining a real samurai sword, it's recommended to seek out experienced swordsmiths, reputable dealers, or knowledgeable experts who can guide you in selecting an authentic and well-crafted katana.

How do I position a sword correctly on a horizontal sword holder?

The correct position for a katana or Japanese sword on a horizontal holder follows traditional Japanese display practice. Place the sword with the cutting edge facing upward - this is the standard orientation for storage and display and reduces wear on the inner surface of the saya at the edge side. The handle should face to the right from the viewer's perspective, which reflects the way Japanese swords were stored in households and displayed in formal settings. Rest the sword on the pegs so that the weight is distributed between the two contact points - typically one near the base of the blade and one near the middle of the saya. The saya should not hang over the pegs at either end, as this puts unnecessary stress on the scabbard. If your holder has adjustable pegs, set them so the sword rests level without rocking. For display purposes, you can leave the sageo cord wrapped neatly around the saya or hanging alongside it according to preference.

What is a hamon, and which katanas in this collection have one?

A hamon is the visible temper line that runs along the cutting edge of a clay-tempered blade. During the tempering process, a layer of clay is applied to the spine of the blade before quenching; the clay-covered spine cools more slowly and remains softer, while the exposed edge cools rapidly and hardens. The boundary between these two zones appears as a misty or crystalline line — the hamon — when the blade is polished. In this collection, the 1065 carbon steel katana and the T10 folded clay-tempered katana both feature real hamon produced through this traditional process. Damascus steel blades in this collection undergo clay tempering as well, producing a hamon that interacts visually with the layered grain pattern. A genuine hamon is distinct from an acid-etched imitation line sometimes found on lower-cost swords.

How does 1060 carbon steel compare to T10 in these collectibles?

Both are high-carbon steels well-suited to katana construction, but they serve slightly different collector priorities. 1060 carbon steel contains roughly 0.6% carbon, making it tough, relatively easy to maintain, and forgiving of temperature and humidity changes — a practical choice for display pieces that may be handled regularly. T10 steel, sometimes called tool steel, has a higher carbon content around 1.0% along with trace tungsten, which allows it to take and hold a very fine edge geometry. When clay-tempered, T10 develops a genuine hamon — the undulating temper line along the blade's edge — that is visually distinct and highly valued by serious collectors. T10 pieces typically require more attentive maintenance (light oiling every few months) but reward that care with blade activity and surface character that 1060 doesn't replicate.

How should I maintain and store a green sageo katana on display?

Updated Mar 2026

Proper care protects both the blade and the fittings over years of display. For the blade, apply a thin coat of choji oil or mineral oil every few months using a soft cloth to prevent oxidation - avoid fingerprints directly on the polished surface, as skin oils accelerate spotting. Store the katana horizontally or on a display stand with the edge facing upward in the traditional manner, away from direct sunlight, which can fade the green sageo and ito wrap over time. Humidity is the primary enemy of lacquered saya: keep the display environment between 40-55% relative humidity to prevent the lacquer from cracking or the wood from warping. For the sageo cord itself, avoid excessive handling or compression that would distort the braid - if the cord gets dusty, a soft dry brush is sufficient. Never store the blade inserted tightly into a humid saya for extended periods.